new york fashion week, day one, part three

Rachel Comey
There is always something interesting about a Rachel Comey show. While Comey chose to go back to her familiar grounds with floral prints in both big and small, and a few animal prints too, a Comey show just isn’t the same without swinging monkeys is it? Aside from all dramatics, the Fall 09 collection Rachel Comey pulled together was, straight up, about comfort. There were multiple layers. And by multiple, I really do mean that. It was like a, winter cottage retreat look when you’re huddled up by the fireplace with a dozen layers on keeping yourself warm from the blizzard snow outside. Some of the pieces were a little too straight cut, in a boxy, unflattering way that seems to only look good on models because of their tiny waists, but as individual pieces, say with, ultra skinny cigarette jeans, the box cut cropped blazers and tops would look fabulous. Another hint that Comey’s inspiration came from the great outdoors? Check out those fur caps.


Rag & Bone
I will never get over Rag & Bone. Not for menswear, not for womenswear. Never, never, never. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville’s urban edge is something I couldn’t make do without. The heavy leather, dark colour palette, deep jewel hues, and lace up boots were the parts that held the cohesiveness to the show. I loved the waistcoats, and the blazers, the leather leggings, the structural use of layering and the mixed shapes and forms of silhouettes. And the leg warmers: fabulous. (PS: don’t you love Coco as a redhead!? It’s her natural colour too!)

Shipley & Halmos

The Shipley & Halmos ready to wear Fall 09 collection was not a disappointment. As much as I loved the straight menswear line, I love the women’s wear ten times over. Very urban city, very slick and direct. Sam Shipley said of the collection, “These pieces are for an individualist, someone with conviction and an end goal in mind.” While the collection was a repeat of very similar styles and shape, tailored in similar fabrics, like the array of leather and silk, the fit of the garments and how they translated on the runway was what held my eye. Sometimes it isn’t always about the fanciest looks or the largest amount of innovation. Sometimes, it’s about doing what you do really well, and sticking with it.

Staerk

Camilla Staerk’s collection of fourteen looks was small but strong. There’s nothing wrong with putting everything you have into only fourteen looks, when you know, it will turn out phenomenal. The collection was pretty but packed so much edge. There were frayed edges, mesh and fringe, black leather, lace and tweed. But somehow, all of these not so nice (maybe even a little naughty?), parts pulled together into something gorgeous, and, really pretty. High waisted skirts and full sleeve minidresses were some of the pieces I favoured most. Dark and dangerous, but elegant all the same.

Yigal Azrouel
The final addition to day one at New York Fashion Week (took awhile to get here, eh?) is Yigal Azrouel. If you read my previous post today you would have read about the drama before the show even started, with former escort Ashley Dupre sitting front row without (gasp!) an invited, much to the designer’s dismay. The whole ordeal resulted in their mutual publicist getting fired and Dubre getting a lot of press. But, the show itself, was even more drama than an uninvited guest. This show was a serious power romp, and I’m so not kidding. It was a really tough collection even though the basic ideas came from pretty ideas, like the idea of a cocktail dress. Dark and romantic, washed out cotton and leather combinations in nearly every colour (scaled down, mind you) created a collection with a lot less layering than Azrouel did in some of his previous collection, however, the layering was still there. My favourites? The oversized fur vest with huge lapels, the studded cropped motocross jacket, and shoulder capelet.

Much love,
s.

Images c/o Style